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Next Meet

"Wild Camping"

1st - 3rd March 2013

Next Social

AGM. Portland D136.
map

Thursday 14th March
8.00 pm

If you don't want this for a time, please comment it-Fabian !Next Ice Climb

Manchester Indoor Ice Wall
Friday 1st December at 8:30am

If you don't want this for a time, please comment it-Fabian !Next Climb

I know there are a few people thinking of going to the Alps this year so I've created this page, please note that:

The MPS Alps trips are not official MPS trips, but a group of people who know each other through MPS meeting up to do stuff together in the Alps. As such you will need to take responsibility for booking your own travel, and alpine insurance (really vital). If you want to do graded alpine routes then having some Scottish winter experience is a must (Disagree: it's useful - Chris) (True Brannock).

Also remember the BMC statement. The BMC recognises that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.

So who's going and when?

WhoFly/drive outReturnBooked?Comments
Brannock29th JuneUp to 28th JulyYes Coaching it out on 29th June getting into cham c9am on 30th staying out till 28th July ish 
SeanBus July 4thJuly 18thYESArrive by bus 8.30 on Mon 5th, leaving 21.45 on Sun 18th
Jeffers1st July onwards4 weeksCoaching it with Gregor leave Notts 1st July, arrive Chamonix 2nd.Conville on July 4th
Annetteflying to Switzerland 12th June. In Cham from 15th June, maybe.Flying from Geneva 15th JulyYESConville 20th-22nd June.
GregBus1st-22nd July (3 weeks)YES - coach (sucker for punishment!) RETURN: Leave Cham 22nd July. What kind of Peanut butter and teabags do you prefer Chris?Conville on July 4th
Chris Burn   I'm in Chamonix all summer. I'll be working 4 days/week and I have family visiting mid-June but it would be cool to meet up for a route with some of you so keep in touch
Phil1st July3-4 weeksYes, finally. Coaching it 

Some brave people getting the coach out...but if any of you want to take advantage of the large luggage allowance to bring tea bags and peanut butter to Chamonix it would be very much appreciated! - Chris

Where?

I know there are some people with Convilles so will be in Chamonix, I would love to see some other parts of the Alps perhaps just the Italian side of Mount Blanc, other than that the Bregaglia looks awesome. For Cham the Frendo spur is high on my wish list........ Brannock

Ignor everything I said about driving, I can't beleive it took me so long to realise this but that price was based on the cost split 8 ways (we had 2 cars), my mistake! SEAN

35 each is very ambitious... If you had a small diesel this would just about cover your fuel from Calais to Chamonix and back but it doesn't take into account the cost of toll roads (which make the journey a lot nicer and give you more climbing time). Tolls cost 70euros each way (so 60) so the best possible price pp will be about 80 inc ferry. On top of this you've got the cost of adding another driver to your insurance policy. Granted a car is more practical once you're down there but it's no cheaper than the bus and you're unlikely to find 4 people who want to go out and come back at the same time. Hamish

Matterhorn? Go on! You know you want to! An MPS team effort will surely win the day! Annette

PS. having now watched Nordwand can I just state publicly that I don't ever want to climb that godawful lump of rock that people call the 'Eiger'. I refuse to even be in Switzerland at the same time as anyone I care about climbs that fucker <traumatised>

I Went to Arolla in Switerzland two years ago for a bit, nice place food+Booze prob bit more expensive than cham but no cable cars which saves on lift passes. Also a lot less busy than Cham and possibly slightly better weather. Got some nice mountains too, like: this one (looks a bit like the Matterhorn as well) and Mount Collon Brannock

Insurance

BMC is widely thought to be the best, see here (You will need the alpine and ski)

Take a serious look at the Austrian Alpine club: it's very cheap but I'd recommend you read the terms and conditions and make your own assessment. Chris

Gear

Basically the Alps are surprisingly warm, can be cold at night (down to -5C ish in the mountains, warmer in the valley) Definitely need:

  • Really good sunglasses Category 4s (cheapest to buy when you get there if you don't have any),
  • A sun hat,
  • Sunscreen (did I mention its sunny?),
  • Spare batteries for your torch (its not sunny all the time!). And if you've only got a Petzl Tikka get something better because unless its a clear night you'll find they aren't much good for route-finding.
  • Something to cook your dinner on.

For glacier travel: a rope, a few slings and krabs, prussiks and at the very least one ice screw (the club doesn't have any and they are expensive)+ crampons and an axe

For easy routes one single rope is a better idea than a pair half ropes as its much easier to handle.

Some rock gear (don't need much)

If you can think of anything else put it here

I'm currently in Argentiere. It is pissing it down here. Constantly. I really regret not bringing running shoes as running is about all there is to do here when its wet- so bring trainers people! Also, judging by Chris' attire, lycra is THE clothing item of choice around here. Ronhills are so last year.... Annette

Any gear questions please feel free to ask them here.

Which maps and guidebooks are recomended for a 1st season? Is it best to purchase when I arrive? -Greg

Hi Greg, for guidebooks the one called Easy Ascents and Glacier hikes is centainly easy to use but dosent have many routes in, for something more complete the Snow Ice and Mixed (two vollumes) are quite good with nice pictures but dont include any rock climbs, the most complete are probably the alpine club ones (Mount Blanc Massif, again two volumes) but there not the easiest things to use but if youre good at route finding from a written description there probably the most cost effective choice. For pure rock climbs the Michael piola guides to the chamonix aguiles and aig rouges look really good (possibly cheaper to buy out there...)Brannock

Reading

I know its exam time so a lot of people will be looking for things to distract them so you might want to have a look at these

Alpine introduction by Rich Cross BMG

Nice Gear article by Andy K, though please do read the last sentance

and another one by andy k

And if youre still desperate for more from Andy try this one, its also not focused on gear

Old stuff

ALps 09 planning

Alps 09 report

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Page last modified on December 17, 2014, at 12:13 AM