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Next Meet

"Wild Camping"

1st - 3rd March 2013

Next Social

AGM. Portland D136.
map

Thursday 14th March
8.00 pm

If you don't want this for a time, please comment it-Fabian !Next Ice Climb

Manchester Indoor Ice Wall
Friday 1st December at 8:30am

If you don't want this for a time, please comment it-Fabian !Next Climb

Meet report

About time to start discussing plans for the Alps this summer. This page is for everyone thinking of coming to discuss ideas - so if you are thiinking of coming, please get involved and make an active contribution...

Please note the Alps trips is not an official MPS organised trip, but a group of people who know each other through MPS meeting up to do stuff togther in the Alps. As such you will need to take responsibilty for booking your own travel, flights, and alpine insurance (a must). Some Scottish winter experience is advisable, especially for those wanting to do graded alpine routes.

Who might be going?

WhoFly outReturnBooked?Comments
Franco14th July - Easyjet EMA to GVA21st August - GVA to LTNYesConville course G - 16th-18th
Chris27th June - Easyjet EMA to GVA20th July - GVA to EMAyepGoing to Chamonix to look for friends - then will wander over to Zermatt, does no-one fancy coming earlier?!
Damian10th July - LTN to GVA21st August - GVA to LTNYesMeet up with you in Argentiere then go to Zermatt
Adam11th july LGW to GVA5th AugustHell, yeah!On conville reserve list. The bastards.
Steve11th July - Easyjet EMA to GVA9th Aug - GVA to Ncastleyes 
Lou4th Julywhen i get boredalmostOn Conville course D, 5-7th july, stay in Chamonix for a while then come to Zermatt
Sophie9th July23rd July Ecrins region
Grahame24th July21st Aug ish ? driving
Jim24th July21 Aug ish? driving with Grahame
Al H17th Aug25th Aug  
Ed??   

Mailing list for everyone who might be coming

Insurance

Do we need a BMC membership number, or is the club name suffcient? If you ring the BMC and say who you are and that you are from MPS you should be able to get your number but I don't think you need it for getting insurance. DW

  • Austrian Alpine Club is NOT recommended for Switzerland - G.
  • BMC is best? F
  • BMC is fine, others may also be but I couldn't say - G.]

Location

Suggestion 1: Valais Alps East Region
Proposed: Franco
Seconded: Damo
For you convillers its not difficult to get from Argentiere to Zermatt, see map above, using trains.
Base: Zermatt (seeing as they never made it last year)
Campsite: Atermenzen, the best in the area.

Routes:

  • Stockhorn (3532m, training peak)
  • Breithorn (4164m, F)
  • Castor (4228m, W-NW Flank PD)
  • Pollux (4092m, N ridge AD)
  • Rimpfischhorn (4198.9m, PD+)
  • Lenzspitze and Nadelhorn
  • Ober Gabelhorn
  • Zinalrothorn
  • Mettelhorn
  • Matterhorn
  • PD+ Dom - NW Ridge 'Festigrat'
  • AD Dufourspitze (highest point of Monte Rosa) - Cresta Rey

Cable car costs - Note 84 CHF for KI Matterhorn.
Train Cost - Zermatt to Gornergrat.
Pros:

  • Biggest and Best of the Alpes
  • 34 of the 4,000m peaks
  • Good choice of easy routes

Cons:

  • lack of nightlife - surely we're going there to do mountains and not clubs, and all we need for nightlife is a late night bar serving pizzas at midnight! (and somewhere to get brownies surely??)

Zermatt Travel info

Transport

Mostly public. Damo bringing a car?? Trying to get that sorted.
EasyJet costs about 60 going from Luton to Geneva (Return).

Training

We need to practice skills before we go
Can do rope climbing/descending/hauling in the Peaks? Last year we went camping in the Lakes after exams to practice moving together. Steve Long mentioned Flying Butress in N Wales so we could go there this year for a week or so. Skye can also be used to do some abseiling. Last year we decided that as the crevasse rescue system is taught on the conville course it would be best to leave the teaching of that to the guides. Every guide has their way of teaching it so what we would say is likely to be different to what you get taught, however there is no harm in knowing more than one method. I've just bought the BMC alpine video so if anyone wants to borrow it at some point let me know - lou

Gear

Is there anything I wouldn't usually take that I might not already have thought of? - Chris

  • A couple of ice screws? - what length?
  • Do people usually use salopettes for the longer routes?
  • A few crabs are needed too, as far as I know no need for salopettes.
  • What kind/weight of boots?
  • I used mantas, but B3s are probably better, esp if you want to do higher peaks.
  • Any recommendations on guidebooks?
  • Alpine Climbing - Cicerone
  • Alpine Club Guide Books - 6 Guide Books
  1. Mont Blanc Massive Vol 1
  2. Mont Blanc Massive Vol 2
  3. Valais Alps East (Inc Zermatt)
  4. Valais Alps West
  5. Dolimites
  6. + 1 more

And just out of interest: is it standard practice to back-up an abseil with a prusik/how many people don't bother? Yes standard practice to use prussik with an abseil esp in alps with falling rocks etc. You might prefer to extend the abseil so extenders/sling would be required.

Mountain Officer Chat

I think a few of these articles will be useful. My favourite line in them is 'It is OK to get mountain sickness. It is not OK to die from it.' Sound advice from the experts. You heard it here first!

Altitude Sickness

Previous years discussions:

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